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FEEDING - After 8 weeks old and into adulthood, pups can be fed twice per day
(although 3 times per day is best until 12 weeks old). A small amount of cold
tap water should be added to dry food. The weight of the pup/dog should be
monitored carefully throughout its life and the food amounts adjusted
accordingly. Being overweight is a major cause of joint problems and other
diseases. Although labs are a medium sized breed, they are very fast-growing.
Therefore, as puppies, they should be fed adult food designed for all life
stages. Large breed puppy formula does not seem to work well although in theory
is a great idea. It is essential that pups be fed a food that is certified as
meeting the dietary requirements for all stages of life using AAFCO testing
procedures.
 Most large-scale, commercial (supermarkets/big pet store chains) dog foods are
junk. The following is a list of recommended foods with phone numbers and web
sites to find where you can buy them. Local breeders are glad to sell you food
as they buy it wholesale and can make a small profit which goes toward feeding
their own dogs. I recommend to switch/alternate food every 4 - 6 months. It is
best to alternate between different meats and grains. The first two or three
ingredients on the label are what you should focus on. Feed a richer food
during the part of the year where the dog is burning more calories. All
recommended foods are "all-natural" and are moderately priced.
Eagle Pack: 800-255-5959,
www.eaglepack.com
Pet Guard: 800-331-7527,
www.petguard.com
Solid Gold: 619-258-1914,
www.solidgoldhealth.com
Pinnacle: 800-255-4286,
www.breeders-choice.com
If you can not find any of these three brands at a store
convenient to you, we are glad to research and recommend other brands.
There is no food that is the best for all dogs. All dogs
are different. If your dog does not do well on a particular type of food, try
another brand. We almost exclusively feed our dogs food made by one of the
following companies: 1) Eagle Pack (holistic blend only), 2) PetGuard, 3)
Solid Gold, and 4) Breeder’s Choice (Pinnacle). Eagle Pack and Pinnacle are
both excellent “all-around foods” and are generally what we feed to puppies.
They also come in different formulas, the chicken being most common. PetGuard
is a great food for very active pups and young adults. However, it is high
calorie and most pet dogs end up overweight. Also, some dogs with sensitive
digestive systems may not be able to handle PetGuard. Solid Gold is not
recommended for pups. We use the beef and lamb varieties for adult dogs and the
bison is excellent for overweight or older dogs.
 EXERCISING - Proper exercise and socialization are
necessary for growing pups and adults. This is especially true for Labradors
who are bred to be very social athletes. Most pups/dogs who act "hyper" are not
getting enough exercise and/or social experiences. However, do not force a pup
to run more than it wants to as over-exercise can cause joint problems. Playing
with dogs that are bigger in size is also a major cause of joint injuries.
Monitor the exercise levels of your puppy/dog carefully.
SUPERVISION - Crates, pens, kennels and fences are all important in keeping your
pet safe. Puppies/dogs should either be directly supervised or be in a safe
enclosure.
VACCINATION SCHEDULE – We follow the traditional protocol
of a series of 3 distemper/parvo combo shots for puppies, 4 weeks apart,
starting at 8 weeks old. Rabies shot is given at least 2 weeks later (18 – 20
weeks old). We then do boosters at 1 and 4 years old, except for rabies which
by law needs to be done every 3 years for life (rabies is always given at least
2 weeks from the other vaccines). Annual check-ups are necessary even though
vaccinations are not being given every year. Schedule annual check-up for
between 1/1 and 3/1 to spread-out vaccinations from heartworm and flea/tick
meds.
HEARTWORM BLOOD TEST AND STOOL TEST FOR INTESTINAL PARASITES should be done at
the annual check-up. Use intestinal worm medication (pyrantel pamoate or
fenbendazole) when
necessary. Nursing bitches and pups are routinely wormed as well.
 HEARTWORM MEDICINE ("Heartguard Plus", ivermectin/pyrantel)
every 30 days during mosquito season. My schedule in central New Hampshire
is: monthly 5/8 – 12/8. (note: vaccinations are done in the winter, and heartworm
and flea/tick meds are given at least 1 week apart to minimize physiological
stress).
FLEA/TICK PREVENTION ("Front Line", fipronil) every 30 days for ticks and every
60 days for
fleas. My central
New Hampshire
schedule is: monthly, 4/1 – 11/1 (start earlier for mild winter with early
spring, or later for bad winter with late spring).
GROOMING - Trim nails every 2 - 3 weeks. This varies with individual dog,
activity level, and age. We do pups once per week. Dogs/pups should be brushed
once per week (except maybe more often when shedding). Frequent brushing
minimizes the need for baths and allows for a general health check. Too harsh
brushing causes skin irritation. Use only mild shampoos if bathing more than
once per month or two.
EAR CARE - Check ears thoroughly when doing routine
grooming. Clean ears only when dirty or after swimming in swampy water. If a
dog has a history of ear infections, routine cleaning may need to be considered
and food and other possible allergens should be carefully analyzed. Proper
cleaning technique is important. Improper cleaning can result in increased risk
of infection as well as punctured ear drums. Too much cleaning can irritate the
ear canal. Ears should be checked by a vet if there is excessive "gunk",
redness/irritation, or if they smell infected. If an antibiotic or anti-fungal
medication is prescribed by a vet, schedule a recheck appointment to be sure
that the infection is completely gone. Vets may change meds in the case of a
resistant infection.
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